Start the RFQ with the fleece route
Do not source this item only as a “soft fleece throw”. For this article, the intended product is polyester coral fleece: a circular-knitted, raised-pile fabric with a plush face, usually finer and glossier than basic polar fleece and shorter than long-pile PV plush. Mills sometimes use “flannel fleece”, “microfleece”, “coral fleece” and “polar fleece” loosely in quotations. That creates trouble because brushing, shearing, pile height, seam bite and lint behaviour differ.
A workable RFQ description is: 100% polyester coral fleece, target finished GSM 270 ±5%, circular knitted, double-brushed or brushed to approved face, optional one-face shearing for cleaner retail surface, pile height usually around 2.0-3.0 mm, finished size measured after 24 h relaxation before packing. If the buyer wants a lower-pile matte hand, it may be closer to microfleece or flannel fleece. If the buyer wants a loftier, more open hand, it may move toward polar fleece. Approve the actual construction, not only the trade name.
Yarn shorthand such as “75D-150D polyester” is too loose for approval. A normal development route may use 100D/144F or 150D/288F polyester DTY, with machine gauge, loop length and finishing tension adjusted to hit 270gsm after brushing, shearing and heat setting. FDY can give a cleaner, crisper surface but may feel less lofty. DTY generally gives better bulk and softness. Denier is one input; finished GSM, pile height, lint result and hand feel are the commercial controls.
Finer filaments give smoother drape for studio demonstration, but they show pressure marks, pile direction and carton compression more clearly. Coarser routes can improve spring and reduce cost, but may look less premium under frontal lighting. State whether the throw must be low-lint against dark apparel, whether both faces must match shade, whether pile direction must run lengthwise on every piece, and whether the seam thread is tonal, contrast, matte or high-sheen.
If recycled polyester is requested, define the claim and document set before sampling. Ask whether the recycled claim applies to the fleece body only or also to sewing thread, labels and packaging. Request claimed recycled percentage, lot traceability, scope certificate where applicable and transaction certificate expectations for bulk lots. Related sourcing checks are covered in rPET blanket documentation for buyers and sustainable recycled blanket sourcing.
Attach commercial assumptions to MOQ and lead time
MOQ and lead time only mean something when the assumptions are visible. If greige coral fleece is available and the colour can run in a standard dye lot, a custom-colour 270gsm throw program may start around 1,000-3,000 pieces per colour. If the buyer needs a reserved fabric width, custom filament route, yarn-dyed contrast thread, special retail carton, TV insert, gift box or recycled-polyester claim documents, the practical MOQ can move higher.
Typical development timing is staged. Lab dips normally need about 3-7 working days after receipt of the physical standard or Pantone reference. Fabric hand swatches often need 5-10 days if finishing must be adjusted. Salesman samples commonly need 7-15 days after lab dip approval and packaging artwork. Bulk production is often planned at about 30-45 days after deposit, approved pre-production sample, confirmed packing files and barcode data. Autumn and holiday retail shipments need earlier capacity booking.
Separate the quote basis from the product spec. FOB Ningbo or FOB Shanghai under Incoterms 2020 is usually cleaner than EXW for retail programs because inland trucking, export handling and carton mark discipline are visible. CIF and DDP can be quoted, but freight volatility, destination charges, customs classification and tax treatment should not be hidden inside the fabric price. Related costing structures are explained in EXW versus FOB Ningbo cost items and custom blanket lead times and shipping.
A tight RFQ line is: 270gsm polyester coral fleece throw, finished GSM 270 ±5%, size 130 x 170 cm before wash after 24 h relaxation, shade to approved lab dip under D65 and TL84, contrast flatseam or coverseam edge as defined by approved sample, four-side edge finish, retail TV pack, barcode verified, AQL 2.5 major / 4.0 minor, FOB Ningbo or Shanghai, Incoterms 2020. If print, embossing or special hangtag placement is planned, state it before seam costing because these change cutting loss, sewing speed and visual defect risk.
Define flatlock, flatseam and coverseam precisely
“Flatlock” is often used as a sales word, not a stitch definition. Buyers should separate three constructions. A true flatseam or flatlock joining seam joins two fabric edges so the seam lies flat with threads spanning both edges, commonly made on a flatseamer. A coverseam edge covering uses coverstitch-style top threads and looper threads to cover a cut or folded edge; it may look like flatlock but is not always a joining seam. A decorative overedge is an overlock or merrow-style edge that wraps the cut edge and creates a more corded outline.
For a single-layer throw edge, many suppliers calling it “flatlock” are proposing a coverseam-style edge covering or decorative multi-needle seam on the perimeter. That can be acceptable if the buyer approves it, but the PO should state the machine class, needle count, thread count, seam width, stitch density and whether the cut edge is trimmed before sewing. Do not approve only the phrase “4-needle 6-thread flatlock”; a 4-needle 6-thread setup describes thread paths, not finished performance.
Ask the supplier to submit a seam card with machine type, stitch class if available, number of needles, number of loopers, needle gauge, needle size, thread Tex, stitch density, seam width, cutter setting, differential feed setting, corner method and target seam photo. If the mill cannot name the machine route, the same sample can be copied on a different line and bulk appearance may change.
For a 270gsm coral fleece throw, a practical starting target is visible seam width 6-8 mm, stitch density 4-5 stitches/cm, seam-width tolerance ±1 mm, and stitch-density tolerance ±0.5 stitch/cm. Common starting points are ballpoint or light ballpoint needles around Nm 75/11 to 90/14 depending on thread and pile density, with spun polyester or textured polyester threads. Needle threads often sit around Tex 24-Tex 35; looper threads may sit around Tex 27-Tex 40. Tex 18 can look neat but may break or cut the pile under high tension. Tex 45 gives a bold TV outline but can stiffen the edge and create tunnelling.
Corner construction must be locked before bulk. Overlapped corners are faster and usually stronger, but they add thickness and may show through folded retail packs. Mitred corners look cleaner on screen but need more operator skill and waste allowance. Acceptance should state: no exposed raw edge longer than 3 mm, no open seam, no broken thread, no needle hole line outside the seam, no loose chain tail longer than 5 mm after trimming, and no more than one minor skipped stitch in any 30 cm visible seam section unless the sealed sample explicitly allows it.
Build measurable seam-performance targets
A flat-looking seam is not enough. The edge must survive shaking, folding, home washing and carton compression. After three domestic wash cycles, the seam should have no open section, no ladder longer than 5 mm, no broken needle thread, no seam roping that prevents flat folding, and no corner distortion beyond the approved sample plus agreed tolerance.
For mechanical testing, use an adapted seam-strength approach suitable for fleece edges. ASTM D5034 grab tensile can be used on body fabric and on a seam-containing specimen where geometry allows. ASTM D1683 is commonly used for sewn seam strength in woven fabrics and can be adapted with caution for comparative fleece seam checks. ISO 13935-2 grab method can also be referenced where the lab is comfortable with the construction. Because a perimeter coverseam is not a conventional joining seam, define specimen orientation and clamp distance with the lab before bulk.
The often-used 70-100 N target should be treated as a buyer internal benchmark or supplier QC pull-test target, not a universal published requirement for coral fleece throws. A practical method is to cut a 100 mm wide specimen containing the finished edge, place the seam or edge line perpendicular to the pull direction, use a constant-rate tensile tester, and record peak force plus failure mode. If a factory uses a simple pull gauge for line QC, calibrate it against the lab method and keep retained specimens from PP sample and bulk.
Pass/fail should include both force and failure mode. For example: pass if no seam rupture, thread break, laddering or raw-edge exposure occurs below 70 N; conditional review from 70-100 N depending on buyer risk level and visual damage; preferred performance above 100 N where fabric deformation occurs before seam failure. A result above 100 N is not useful if the seam cuts the pile, curls the edge, or makes the throw uncomfortable.
Control seam waviness separately. On a relaxed finished throw, edge waviness should usually stay within 10 mm deviation over a 50 cm section, measured against a straight edge without stretching. Puckering should not create a visible tunnel under normal table inspection at about 1 m distance. Seam edge distortion after washing should be recorded separately from body shrinkage because a stable body fabric can still fail if perimeter seam tensions are wrong. Related seam-strength thinking is covered in ASTM D5034 seam-strength targets for fleece stadium blankets.
Control GSM, size and relaxation conditions
ISO 3801 is used for determining mass per unit area of textile fabrics. For brushed coral fleece, the result is meaningful only when sampling and conditioning are controlled. Pile fabrics hold air, finishing moisture and mechanical loft; a freshly brushed roll can read differently from a roll relaxed overnight. Condition specimens where practical in a standard atmosphere, commonly 20 ±2°C and 65 ±4% relative humidity, and do not cut specimens only from compressed roll edges.
For bulk GSM control, take at least three specimens per selected roll or colour lot: left, centre and right positions across the width, avoiding selvedge compression. For a 270gsm target with ±5% tolerance, the working range is about 257-284gsm. A tighter range such as ±3% may be possible but normally increases fabric-control cost and rejection risk. Do not allow low body GSM to be hidden by heavier sewing thread, belly band or insert weight.
Finished size must state the condition. Use separate lines for size after cutting, size after sewing and relaxation, size after packing compression if relevant, and size after laundering. A clean retail specification may say: finished size 130 x 170 cm after 24 h relaxation before wash, tolerance ±2 cm in length and width; after one ISO 6330 or AATCC 135 wash, dimensional change length and width within ±3%; after three washes, within ±5%, unless a stricter buyer standard is agreed.
Measure skew and edge distortion separately. Skew should normally be within 2% after wash for a plain rectangular throw, with no corner twist that prevents square folding. Edge roping or waviness after laundering should usually stay within about 10 mm over a 50 cm section. If tumble dry low is claimed, include it in the wash protocol because dryer heat can change pile height, edge waviness and hand feel more than line drying.
Post-wash GSM and hand feel should be judged against retained approved samples, not only a number. A small GSM increase after washing can occur if the fabric shrinks; that does not prove better quality. A useful acceptance line is: no harsh hand, no matted pile, no seam tunnelling, no visible pile clumping, no unacceptable lint transfer, and finished dimensions within agreed tolerance after relaxation for at least 4 h after drying. General inspection principles are covered in blanket quality control inspection.
Specify wash tests before sampling
Wash testing must be written into the RFQ because fibre, dyeing, softener and seam tension are linked. For European-style testing, use ISO 6330 domestic washing and drying procedures. A typical buyer protocol for polyester coral fleece is 30°C or 40°C synthetic cycle, ECE or agreed reference detergent without optical brightener where shade judgement matters, normal mechanical action, and line dry or tumble dry low as claimed on the care label. Record the exact machine type, load ballast, detergent dose and drying method.
For US programs, AATCC 135 can be used for dimensional changes after home laundering. State the wash temperature, machine cycle, drying method and number of cycles. A practical retail check is one cycle for production release confirmation and three cycles for durability risk assessment. If the care label says machine wash cold and tumble dry low, do not test only line dry and then approve the label. The care claim and test route must match.
Colour fastness should be added separately. ISO 105-C06 is suitable for wash fastness; define temperature and test severity, commonly 40°C for a mild home-wash claim unless the care label requires higher. ISO 105-X12 or AATCC 8 can be used for rubbing/crocking; contrast seam threads in navy, red or black should be checked on both dry and wet rubbing. For dark colours, target at least grade 4 dry and grade 3-4 wet where practical, with the final requirement agreed by market and colour risk.
Dimensional measurements should be taken after the specimen has relaxed. Measure before wash after 24 h relaxation, then after drying and at least 4 h relaxation, using the same datum points. For a 130 x 170 cm throw, mark length and width measurement points before washing. Report length change, width change, skew, edge waviness, pile matting, lint transfer, seam damage and shade change together. Related care labelling detail is covered in blanket care washing guide.
Set linting and pilling limits
Low lint is central for TV retail because presenters handle the throw over dark clothing and studio furniture. Coral fleece can pass a hand-feel review and still shed fine fibres after cutting, brushing or aggressive softening. Require vacuum or air cleaning after cutting where needed, and do not pack freshly sewn goods before loose fibre is removed from seams and folded faces.
For pilling, use a recognised method such as ISO 12945-2 Martindale pilling, ISO 12945-1 pilling box, or ASTM D3512 random tumble pilling. Select one method and cycle count before sampling. For coral fleece throws, buyers often use an internal acceptance around grade 3-4 or better after the agreed cycle count, but the exact requirement should be matched to price point, pile height and market expectations. Long or lofty pile can look worse under some pilling methods even when consumer use is acceptable, so keep retained tested samples for comparison.
For lint transfer, add a practical dark-fabric rub or tape check. One simple factory method is to rub a black cotton or black polyester fabric over a 20 x 20 cm area for a fixed number of strokes under consistent pressure, then grade visible fibre transfer against retained approval samples. A tape-lift method can also be used: apply standard transparent tape with a roller or fixed hand pressure, remove at a consistent angle, and compare fibre pickup on a black card. This is not a substitute for a lab method, but it catches messy bulk before packing.
Define unacceptable lint as visible loose fibre on dark garments after normal handling, fibre clumps in the polybag, excessive loose pile along seams, or lint contamination on inserts and barcode labels. If a buyer wants a very low-lint product, specify shearing, brushing-cleaning and packed-goods air cleaning at quotation stage because these add process time and cost. Pilling-risk controls for fleece are also discussed in anti-pilling test requirements for polar fleece blankets.
Lock colour approval and pile direction
Colour approval on coral fleece needs more than one light box reading. Pile direction changes reflectance; the same piece can look darker when viewed against the nap. Require lab dips or strike-offs to be viewed under D65, TL84 and the buyer’s store or studio light source where relevant. If an instrument is used, state illuminant and observer, commonly D65/10° or D65/2°, and still keep visual approval because pile fabrics can trick numerical readings.
A practical tolerance is ΔE CMC or ΔE00 within about 1.0 for solid colours after lab dip approval, or up to about 1.5 where the buyer accepts more commercial tolerance. Dark navy, charcoal, burgundy and saturated red need tighter visual control because metamerism and crocking risk are higher. Seam thread must be approved against the fleece in the same viewing direction, not on a separate thread card only.
Approval hierarchy should be written clearly: buyer physical standard or Pantone reference for direction; approved lab dip for shade target; salesman sample for hand, seam and retail presentation; pre-production sample for bulk construction, labels, packing and barcode; sealed PP sample overrides earlier samples only for workmanship if the buyer signs it. If lab dip and salesman sample disagree, do not let the factory choose. The PO should state which approved item controls bulk shade.
Pile direction must be consistent across all pieces in a carton. State whether pile runs from head to foot or foot to head when the throw is unfolded with label at the bottom. Inspectors should view all pieces in the same orientation under D65 or neutral daylight-equivalent light, then rotate one piece 180° to check shade flip. Mixed pile direction in one shipment is a major visual defect for TV retail because stacks and camera shots show alternating panels. For dark shade rubbing control, see ISO 105-X12 rubbing fastness for red flannel fleece throws.
Inspect with clear AQL defect classes
Use ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 or ISO 2859-1 sampling with the inspection level and AQL stated on the PO. For retail throws, a common starting point is General Inspection Level II, AQL 2.5 for major defects and AQL 4.0 for minor defects, with critical defects not allowed. The buyer can tighten this for TV launch stock, high-return channels or dark colours.
Classify critical defects as safety, legal or sale-blocking issues: needle or metal contamination, mould, live insects, wrong fibre claim, wrong care label, wrong barcode assigned to SKU, carton containing mixed unauthorised SKUs, or flammability documentation missing where required. Any critical defect normally causes hold or rejection pending buyer disposition.
Major defects should include open seam, seam ladder longer than 5 mm, broken thread on visible edge, raw edge exposed longer than 3 mm, wrong size beyond tolerance, GSM below the agreed minimum, obvious shade variation within carton, mixed pile direction, severe shedding or lint clumps, heavy odour, barcode not scanning, wrong insert, wrong hangtag, crushed retail pack affecting saleability, wet carton, oil stain, hole, fabric tear, or corner bulk that prevents proper folding.
Minor defects may include one short skipped stitch within the allowed 30 cm section, slight thread end within trimming tolerance, mild pile pressure mark recoverable after airing, small loose fibre removable by shaking, slight carton scuff not affecting contents, minor polybag wrinkle, or small shade difference within approved tolerance. Repeated minor defects in the same location should be upgraded because they indicate process drift.
Inspection tools should include calibrated scale, GSM cutter, steel tape, light box or controlled light area, grey scale, barcode scanner, seam-width gauge, stitch counter, moisture meter where cartons are at risk, and retained PP sample. Inspectors should open cartons from top, middle and bottom pallet positions because compression, moisture and shade drift often appear unevenly across the load. Related AQL structure is covered in AQL 2.5 inspection checklist for coral fleece blankets.
Define carton and retail packing specs
Packing is part of the product. A 270gsm 130 x 170 cm coral fleece throw weighs roughly 0.60 kg in fabric before seam thread and packaging. Depending on fold, insert and compression, a master carton may hold 10, 12, 16 or 20 pieces. Higher pack counts reduce freight cost but increase pile crushing, corner deformation and barcode label abrasion. Confirm carton dimensions by packed sample, not spreadsheet only.
Avoid excessive compression. For plush coral fleece, keep compression moderate enough that pile recovers after 24 h airing. Vacuum compression is normally risky for TV retail unless the buyer accepts temporary creasing and delayed loft recovery. If compression straps or tight belly bands are used, test for pressure marks after 7 days and 14 days. A practical rule is to reject packing that leaves visible band marks or flattened seam ridges after 24 h unpacked relaxation.
Carton board should be specified. For export master cartons, common starting points are 5-ply corrugated with burst strength around 200 lb/in² or edge crush strength around 32 ECT, adjusted to carton size and pallet height. Heavy or tall cartons may need stronger board. State maximum gross weight, often kept below 15-18 kg for manual handling unless the buyer accepts higher. Carton sealing should use export-grade tape or strapping if required by the route.
Polybag thickness should be stated, typically 30-50 microns for individual retail protection, or thicker where the bag carries print, warning text or hanger load. If a suffocation warning is required, specify wording, language, print size and placement. Desiccant or moisture-control packs may be used for humid-season shipments, but they do not fix wet goods. Finished blankets should be dry and odour-free before bagging; carton moisture should be checked before loading if containers move through humid ports.
Retail inserts, belly bands, hangers and labels need tolerances. State insert size tolerance, commonly ±2 mm; belly band position tolerance, commonly ±5 mm; hanger or loop position tolerance, commonly ±5 mm; and barcode placement away from folds and seams. Barcode scan requirements should be practical: 100% scan verification during packing for TV retail SKUs, plus random scan at final inspection using the buyer’s required barcode type, such as EAN-13, UPC-A or Code 128. Barcode grade can be specified where the buyer has a verifier; otherwise require readable, correct SKU data and no print smear. For belly-band sourcing, see paper belly bands for travel throws.
Use a buyer-ready RFQ checklist
A clear RFQ reduces sample loops. Put mandatory specs, tolerances, documents and inspection points in separate lines so the mill can cost the real product. Do not bury critical performance requirements in email comments after sampling; they may not reach knitting, dyeing, sewing and packing teams.
Mandatory product specs should include: fleece type as polyester coral fleece; finished GSM 270 ±5%; size and tolerance before wash after 24 h relaxation; pile height target or approved sample reference; colour standard and light sources; pile direction; seam construction, seam width and stitch density; thread colour and Tex; corner method; care label claim; retail pack style; carton quantity; Incoterms 2020 quote basis; and target ship window.
Mandatory tolerances should include: GSM 257-284gsm unless otherwise agreed; size ±2 cm before wash; dimensional change within ±3% after one wash and within ±5% after three washes; seam width ±1 mm; stitch density ±0.5 stitch/cm; edge waviness within 10 mm over 50 cm; ΔE target around 1.0-1.5 depending on colour and buyer approval; no barcode scan failure; no heavy odour; and carton gross weight maximum.
Required documents should include: signed quotation sheet, fabric construction sheet, lab dip approval record, salesman sample comments, PP sample approval, care label artwork, packing artwork, barcode data, carton marks, inspection standard, wash-test report, pilling or lint-transfer result if required, colour fastness report for dark shades, and recycled-claim documentation where applicable. If the product is sold into a regulated market, add the buyer’s chemical, flammability and labelling requirements before bulk.
Inspection points should include: incoming fabric GSM and shade; pile direction before cutting; seam balance during sewing; corner trimming; loose fibre removal; measurement after relaxation; barcode scan at packing; carton quantity; carton mark accuracy; moisture and odour check; AQL final inspection; and retained sealed samples. For broader decoration and private-label decisions, see custom blanket decoration methods and low-MOQ startup blanket sourcing.
Frequently asked
Is this throw coral fleece, flannel fleece, microfleece or polar fleece? The intended product is 270gsm polyester coral fleece: a knitted raised-pile fleece with a soft plush face, usually finer and glossier than basic polar fleece. Some suppliers may quote similar goods as flannel fleece or microfleece, so the RFQ should define finished GSM, pile height, brushing, shearing, hand feel and approved sample rather than relying on the name alone.
What seam strength should I require for a flatlock-style fleece throw? For a perimeter flatseam or coverseam on 270gsm coral fleece, 70-100 N is a practical buyer internal benchmark or supplier QC pull-test range, not a universal standard. Define specimen width, seam orientation, clamp setup and failure mode. Passing should mean no thread break, laddering, raw-edge exposure or seam opening below the agreed force.
Which wash test should be used? Use ISO 6330 for domestic washing procedures or AATCC 135 for dimensional change after home laundering, depending on the market. State temperature, cycle, detergent, load ballast, drying method and number of cycles. A common retail protocol is one wash for release confirmation and three washes for durability review, with measurement after at least 4 h relaxation after drying.
What AQL level is suitable for retail coral fleece throws? A common starting point is General Inspection Level II with AQL 2.5 for major defects and AQL 4.0 for minor defects, using ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 or ISO 2859-1. Critical defects such as metal contamination, mould, wrong barcode, wrong fibre claim or missing required compliance documents should not be accepted.
How should colour be controlled on pile fleece? Approve lab dips and samples under D65 and TL84, and add the buyer’s store or studio light if relevant. Use a ΔE target, often around 1.0-1.5 depending on colour risk, but keep visual approval because pile direction changes shade perception. Bulk pieces should be inspected in the same pile direction and mixed pile direction should be treated as a major defect.
What carton packing is realistic for a 130 x 170 cm 270gsm throw? Depending on fold and retail pack, 10, 12, 16 or 20 pieces per export carton may be workable. Confirm by packed sample. Specify 5-ply carton strength, maximum gross weight, individual polybag thickness, barcode scan requirement, insert or belly-band tolerances, and compression limits so the pile and seam edges recover after unpacking.
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